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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.